'Spongy' Brakes

The front brake on my CGR feels odd
It's almost as if there's air in it
However, it's not been touched as a system

For the record, it's on
RS505 'brifters'
RS785 Calipers
Metal 'sintered' (Shimano) pads


Initially I thought
1. it was mud, as I cut through the woods/along the river (Calder) bank on it, & that some had got onto the pads
2. as I keep it in the male changing rooms, in one of the departments, that it had possibly been over-sprayed with a deodorant the day before (etc...)

On arrival at work this morning, I pulled the pads, they felt slightly glazed
I also cleaned the disc with a couple of sterets (the IPA wipes, that are used on your arm, before an injection)
Riding home showed no discernible difference in brake performance

The pads are quite worn, I normally change them before this point.... mainly due to liking a short lever travel, rather than wear
But these may have gone further??
(I hadn't been able to get the correct pads for a couple of months)


So, does the panel think it's really due to extended pad wear, & there's no surplus of fluid to overcome this (lever quite close to bars too)

Or, another fault???

Thanks in advance

NB;
I've never had cause to bleed them
There's no sign of a fluid leak

I used to use Magura hydraulic rim-brakes on my Pace RC100, so used to those)
 
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YukonBoy

The Monch
Location
Inside my skull
It does sound like air in the system and that they need bleeding. Spongy brakes is a classic symptom.
 

si_c

Veteran
Location
Wirral
Could well be air in the system - if the pads are over worn then it's possible the pistons are overextending and air has entered the system.

I'd change the pads immediately and then bleed the system - you shouldn't need to do a full bleed just use the bleed cup at the shifter end and get the air out that way.
 
Could well be air in the system - if the pads are over worn then it's possible the pistons are overextending and air has entered the system.

I'd change the pads immediately and then bleed the system - you shouldn't need to do a full bleed just use the bleed cup at the shifter end and get the air out that way.

Changing the pads would be my first thing. Easy and costs you nothing as they're overdue anyway. Then see if it's still an issue.
Re; both quotes

I put some old pads in first thing this AM, before going to work, & whilst it's not brilliant, with a 'ching-ching-ching' as they touch the edge of the disc, it's better
(a pair that I'd taken out, due to excessive -for my liking- lever travel)
Therefore I've ordered new pads (will change rear at same time)
 
New pads in this afternoon

I had to push a piston back (used an old toothbrush, so as not to damage the seal)
On comparing the sizes, the new ones are smaller (even allowing for no 'heat-sink'), but hey!, I was the one who ordered them

Once in place, they (surprisingly) didn't rock, due to size difference
I haven't changed the rears (maybe next month)

I'll see what they're like when they've bedded in
Still for less than £10/pair, I'll try them

Is it Wiggles own brand?

552404

552405

552406
 

si_c

Veteran
Location
Wirral
New pads in this afternoon

I had to push a piston back (used an old toothbrush, so as not to damage the seal)
On comparing the sizes, the new ones are smaller (even allowing for no 'heat-sink'), but hey!, I was the one who ordered them

Once in place, they (surprisingly) didn't rock, due to size difference
I haven't changed the rears (maybe next month)

I'll see what they're like when they've bedded in
Still for less than £10/pair, I'll try them

Is it Wiggles own brand?

View attachment 552404

View attachment 552405

View attachment 552406
Yep, I'm pretty sure that Prime are a Wiggle/CRC brand. I use the Noah&Theo ceramic pads which are £5.99 a pair.
 
They feel good now

I may replace the rears now, as the lever travel is further than I like
 

MrGrumpy

Huge Member
Location
Fly Fifer
The front brake on my CGR feels odd
It's almost as if there's air in it
However, it's not been touched as a system

For the record, it's on
RS505 'brifters'
RS785 Calipers
Metal 'sintered' (Shimano) pads


Initially I thought
- it was mud, as I cut through the woods/along the river (Calder) bank on it, & that some had got onto the pads
- as I keep it in the male changing rooms, in one of the departments, that it had been over-sprayed with a deodorant the day before (etc...)

On arrival, I pulled the pads, they felt slightly glazed, & I also cleaned the disc with a couple of sterets (the IPA wipes, that are used on your arm, before an injection)
Riding home showed no discernible difference in brake performanc

The pads are quite worn, I normally change them before this point.... mainly due to liking a short lever travel, rather than wear
But these may have gone further??
(I hadn't been able to get the correct pads for a couple of months)


So, does the panel think it's really due to extended pad wear, & there's no surplus of fluid to overcome this (lever quite close to bars too)

Or, another fault???

Thanks in advance

NB;
I've never had cause to bleed them
There's no sign of a fluid leak

I used to use Magura hydraulic rim-brakes on my Pace RC100, so used to those)
I have the same setup on my CX, not the best in quality. However after a year so off poor braking screeching and pads lasting no time. I decided to bleed them . You will have air in them . I bought comma hydraulic fluid from Halfords (same stuff as shimano oil ) , worked a treat . Braking is super now .
 

MrGrumpy

Huge Member
Location
Fly Fifer
Yep, I'm pretty sure that Prime are a Wiggle/CRC brand. I use the Noah&Theo ceramic pads which are £5.99 a pair.
Got a link to those pads, with the same shifter and calliper setup as the OP , the rotors were labelled up as organic pads only !!

edit googles and found those , and cheap !! However ceramic compatible with rotors designed for organic pads ? Or is that all ballaches ?
 
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si_c

Veteran
Location
Wirral
Got a link to those pads, with the same shifter and calliper setup as the OP , the rotors were labelled up as organic pads only !!

edit googles and found those , and cheap !! However ceramic compatible with rotors designed for organic pads ? Or is that all ballaches ?
No idea, but their organic pads are decent, use them on the MTB can't tell if any difference from the Shimano pads myself.
 
I have the same setup on my CX, not the best in quality. However after a year so off poor braking screeching and pads lasting no time. I decided to bleed them . You will have air in them . I bought comma hydraulic fluid from Halfords (same stuff as shimano oil ) , worked a treat . Braking is super now .
No issues with braking performance with mine
Could it be down to your tyres??
(Schawalbe Durano on mine, now Marathons)

Plus @MrGrumpy

Please note, my avatar.....


View: https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=10221058480683965&set=a.10219917038748630
 

MrGrumpy

Huge Member
Location
Fly Fifer
Nope not my tyres defo spongy crappy braking. All due to leaky callipers at some point. Much much better now. As for the avatar yep if you lived with my two teens you would be grumpy as well :-D .
 
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