Fitting a Tongsheng tsdz2 on an ice sprint

I must admit now that I’ve got it a bit more refined and tuned in I like my e-assist Kettwiesel... it has turned what was a bit of a sluggard in comparison to my other trike into something more comparable, it means I can still put in a similar effort but feel that I am getting somewhere. I was wondering why you’d gone for mid-drive after all your hub drive experiences, although less refined (and I have a Kalkhoff mid drive bike for comparison) it seems more robust in the long run.

Do you think you could fit a mid drive to a recumbent with 180 degrees of free space around the BB? Tempted to make my BikeE go a bit quicker!
 
I must admit now that I’ve got it a bit more refined and tuned in I like my e-assist Kettwiesel... it has turned what was a bit of a sluggard in comparison to my other trike into something more comparable, it means I can still put in a similar effort but feel that I am getting somewhere. I was wondering why you’d gone for mid-drive after all your hub drive experiences, although less refined (and I have a Kalkhoff mid drive bike for comparison) it seems more robust in the long run.

Do you think you could fit a mid drive to a recumbent with 180 degrees of free space around the BB? Tempted to make my BikeE go a bit quicker!
Wales has bigger hills ( called mountains)
it seemed a better idea to have the same power through lower gears.

Send a photo to the support team at Woosh and they will advise . Remember the cables will probably need extensions . They will do this as well if necessary.

regards Emma
 

Bad Machine

In the garage .....
Location
East Anglia
Do you think you could fit a mid drive to a recumbent with 180 degrees of free space around the BB? Tempted to make my BikeE go a bit quicker!
Looking at pictures of BIKE-Es, I'd think the TSDZ2 and Bafang couldn't be inserted into the BB shell - am I right to think the Bike-E BB is equidistance between the top and bottom face of the rectangular boom ?

There'd be too little space between the mid-motor's BB axle and the motor casing (image below is TSDZ2 with fat bike adaptor from electrifybike.com)

images.jpg
 
quick query regarding the trikes. I see that Woosh recommends a 42T ring on the motor; whilst this gives a reasonable top gear on a 700C wheel, is it not a bit limiting on 20”? With the smaller drive wheel, could you not safely use a bigger chainring?
 
We run a 42 to a 9-34 freewheel on 20" wheels . I would think that Woosh are expecting everyone to be running 26/700c wheels . Must ask next time l speak with them.

regards Emma

quick query regarding the trikes. I see that Woosh recommends a 42T ring on the motor; whilst this gives a reasonable top gear on a 700C wheel, is it not a bit limiting on 20”? With the smaller drive wheel, could you not safely use a bigger chainring?
 

bleebo001

Regular
View attachment 490426

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View attachment 490428Photos of the installation. The battery mount , display mount and the handlebar stubs were fabricated to suit . The rear brake was added to comply with EAPC regulations . The pump mount was added to the battery mount. A triangular bag will be added behind the seat.
Flag pole made from a fishing rod, practice golf ball and flag.

View attachment 490429

View attachment 490430
I'm just embarking on this with my ICE Adventure. Can you give an idea what materials you used for the display and battery mounts and where sourced. Cheers
 

bleebo001

Regular
We run a 42 to a 9-34 freewheel on 20" wheels . I would think that Woosh are expecting everyone to be running 26/700c wheels . Must ask next time l speak with them.

regards Emma
Yes, i'll have to ask Wooosh as I am converting an ICE 20inch too....
 
Woosh can supply the cables for the cable extensions, we allowed 90 cm for the speed sensor and the throttle and brakes about the same if fitted , the power cable extensions 1m were also supplied by Woosh.
We tidied up the install with cable wrap off eBay.
The battery mount we made used less than 1metre of 25mm x 3mm angle and 20 x 4mm strip from B&Q
heatshrink can also be ordered off eBay.

PM me for more details or a chat.

regards Emma
 

bleebo001

Regular
Thanks Emma. I'm considering putting battery on back of seat as it is unused space and fairly central. I can also prob charge in situ. I don't fold the trike. Thoughts?

Woosh see to be pretty insistent on 42 ring max. I suppose the 9-32 on back does up the torque a bit. It is a bit of a shame as I regularly use 48/9 combi on flat. As i'm buying this mainly to get up hills I suppose I could take the risk on assumption that I wouldn't use high gears going up.

Running double ring on front do you have to be careful in any way when you switch rings?

Thanks for the info thus far, very useful.

Cheers, stay safe

Bob
 

Mike_P

Veteran
Location
Harrogate
I'm not quite certain where Woosh get that 42 max from. Certainly other forums indicate people using bigger chainrings and I used a 38-48 combination on my now deceased TSDZ2 - it stopped working after the bike bounced over a depression, I assumed it was the torque sensor but the fitted one would not readily extract without the assistance of a hammer and equally the new one would not fit back in without being killed by a hammer. The only issue I had changing gear was not to do it going up hill and that was normally the rear rather than the front that dechained.
 
Thanks Emma. I'm considering putting battery on back of seat as it is unused space and fairly central. I can also prob charge in situ. I don't fold the trike. Thoughts?

Woosh see to be pretty insistent on 42 ring max. I suppose the 9-32 on back does up the torque a bit. It is a bit of a shame as I regularly use 48/9 combi on flat. As i'm buying this mainly to get up hills I suppose I could take the risk on assumption that I wouldn't use high gears going up.

Running double ring on front do you have to be careful in any way when you switch rings?

Thanks for the info thus far, very useful.

Cheers, stay safe

Bob
42 -9 on a 20" wheel is high enough for me , l am a twiddler not a masher , still gives a 90" gear . With the vortex the front mech is still a little temperamental . Still thinking of running a 20" rear triangle and fitting a mesh seat . ( eventually unless l can get another 20/20 sprint RS)
Our battery on the side works well.
 

Bad Machine

In the garage .....
Location
East Anglia
I haven't had a chance to try it out yet (project on hold for the moment due to broken collar bone), but my delta trike rebuild has a 48v TSDZ2 throttle version using a 52 tooth ring, rather than the supplied 42.

My rationale: the standard TSDZ2 crank drive has max recommendation of 42T, specced for use with 26"/700 rear wheels. I've run this combo on an upright since August last year, and it has worked really well. No recommendations were given for the rear cassette range - only that nothing more than a 42T should be fitted to the motor.

The 26" wheel on my upright bike is 30% larger than the 20" wheel on my trike - so I could increase the motor ring size by 30% to adjust for smaller wheels. That'd be a 54T ring. The 52T I have sourced is within the limit suggested.
 

bleebo001

Regular
We have rotated the unit so it rests against the front mech tube . This makes the unit solid and it cannot rotate.
This was approved by Woosh when we sent them photos .

Regards Emma
Hi Emma,
I've bitten the bullet and bought a system and amnow awaiting parts various to do the job. Unfortunately Woosh could not help as theyy are out of stock till prob August...but I've had a good steer from others on where to buy.
One issue which I just wanted to clear up is your emthod for stopping motor rotation as to me it looks like you are not anchoring the motor against its rotation but with it. Can you confirm in this case that I am wrong and are the untis stable and not rotating.

Cheers, Stay Safe.

Bob
 
Hi Emma,
I've bitten the bullet and bought a system and amnow awaiting parts various to do the job. Unfortunately Woosh could not help as theyy are out of stock till prob August...but I've had a good steer from others on where to buy.
One issue which I just wanted to clear up is your emthod for stopping motor rotation as to me it looks like you are not anchoring the motor against its rotation but with it. Can you confirm in this case that I am wrong and are the untis stable and not rotating.

Cheers, Stay Safe.

Bob
Think about it Bob . With every action there is a reaction .
The position of the motor against the mech mount STOPS THE ROTATION of the motor when the unit is under power where it is pulling against the chain . Thus STOPPING THE ROTATION .this was approved by Woosh when l sent them the photos and ho to guide.

Regards Emma
 
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