Elswick Stag restoration project

Hey all

I have not touched 'vintage' bicycles yet but managed to get this today for a modest sum. The front wheel runs relatively true and hub bearings seem remarkably ok. The rear is in need of some attention perhaps although no broken spokes and the rear derailleur seems to operate ok - the front gearing less so. Seat post moved freely and came out rather quickly - turns out it is a bit on the short side, so one of my first jobs will be to source a suitable replacement. I did a little bit of googling and found some basic info online including the Lord his majesty Sheldon Brown's Elswick web page. I am guessing it is about 1980, ish?

Be interesting to tacking this over the winter months, wish me luck :wacko:

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Cycleops

Guru
Location
Accra, Ghana
Nice buy and all original by the looks of it. I'd say it's late seventies? Those 'grab on' foam bar covers are a later addition.
Replace all the cables, inner and outers, maybe take out the BB and re grease or put in a cartridge type.
Remove the axles and bearings to re grease them too, they'll be as dry as a nun's nasty by now. Headset will need similar treatment.
Good luck.
 
OP
OP
Sittingduck
Location
Somewhere flat
Nice buy and all original by the looks of it. I'd say it's late seventies? Those 'grab on' foam bar covers are a later addition.
Replace all the cables, inner and outers, maybe take out the BB and re grease or put in a cartridge type.
Remove the axles and bearings to re grease them too, they'll be as dry as a nun's nasty by now. Headset will need similar treatment.
Good luck.

Thanks for the tips - I think I read somewhere that the stick on foil head tube badges came after 1978 but that may be incorrect, as I say I am a n00b when it comes to this vintage lark.

Headset is indeed 'notchy' and definitely bumped up the list of priorities. I have already cut off and binned the foul foam handlebar grips. Luckily I have a workshop full of cables and parts, although probably not much compatible with this bike, except cables of course. Ultegra 10spd Sti's and chainset sat here gathering dust but it would look stupid put on this... :whistle:

Couple more pics including the frame stamp under the BB:

frame stamp.jpg
rear gearing.jpg
rusty-chrome-forks.jpg
rear rim1.jpg
in progress1.jpg
 
Thanks for the tips - I think I read somewhere that the stick on foil head tube badges came after 1978 but that may be incorrect, as I say I am a n00b when it comes to this vintage lark.

Headset is indeed 'notchy' and definitely bumped up the list of priorities. I have already cut off and binned the foul foam handlebar grips. Luckily I have a workshop full of cables and parts, although probably not much compatible with this bike, except cables of course. Ultegra 10spd Sti's and chainset sat here gathering dust but it would look stupid put on this... :whistle:

Couple more pics including the frame stamp under the BB:

View attachment 616530 View attachment 616531 View attachment 616532 View attachment 616533 View attachment 616534
I wouldn't leave the brake levers that high up the handlebars, they'll be almost impossible to operate.

Maybe that's where the myth of older bikes having crap brakes originates as you need to get at least 2 if not 3 fingers on the levers.
 

Cycleops

Guru
Location
Accra, Ghana
Odd that they were still putting 27” wheels on late seventies/early eighties. You should still be able to get tyres but with a more limited selection. Seem to remember @biggs682 has a recommendation for them.
 

southcoast

Über Member
Looks a nice project. The bike is 1980 month F.
 
OP
OP
Sittingduck
Location
Somewhere flat
Thanks guys, looks like my spider senses of around 80 were on point :okay: I'll wager luck rather than judgement.
Bizarrely the tyres still have the centre tread bit of excess rubber on them, like they have never actually been ridden more than about 5 miles, the back one certainly does anyway. I found some 27 inchers on SJS last night but gonna see if these are a write off first. I removed the levers and stripped it down a bit yesterday and had a bit of a go at the fork rust - here's where it stood at end of play. Off into the workshop in a minute to see if the tyres held air overnight and think about removing the rest of the drivetrain. NDS crank is wobbly and looks like somebody may have bludgeoned the pedal that side too. Need to count chainring teeth, think from photos it's 42 small and maybe around 50 big dog but only way is to count em physically, which I hate doing. Block is 6 spd 14-16-18-20-24-28

I will post more pics to bore you all with later in regards to the state of the perishing sidewalls....
Incidentally, anybody care to guess what the material is of the frame, I was hoping for Reynolds but could it be chro-mo or summit (no stickers remaining)?

in progress2.jpg
 
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Put a straight edge along the bottom of the drop, move the ends of the levers until they touch it.
I'd go lower, level to the ground with the end of the drop BTW this was also the advice of a factory accredited Raleigh mechanic I know)

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Although ideally the top of the bars should be flat, I just like em kinked up a bit as my normal hand position is 'on the bends' with my thumbs pointed forwards (a bit like a golfers grip) and the slight upwards tilt is easier on my wrists. Old school I know but I've been riding that bike since 1975
 

Teamfixed

Tim Lewis
I bought one of these from a shop in Bournemouth in about 81. Cro-mo frame, it became my fixed wheel "work" bike but to be honest I rode it everywhere just because it became so familiar, including the Dorset coast 200k Audax... don't ask me how!
 
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